Belgium triple secondary-priming question

[huntfisher]

I got a Belgian tripel from Williams brewing that instructs that I should leave beer in secondary for 15 day's, then bottle with adding 3 0z of sugar. However, I got this book from Lyn that suppose to be more reliable then brew clones, it states that for a triple, I should add the same yeast strain again in secondary, in order to get a highly carbonated beer that is more realistic for the style. So, I am wondering if I should ignore kit instructions and add same yeast strains again 3 days before bottling, allowing me to have a carbonation that is closer to the style? Also, should I add 4oz of sugar instead of the instructed three? Need some tips. Starting gravity was 76, but there was a bit of trub since I took hydrometer reading from the bottom of kettle.Any tips are welcome. Fermenting between 70-72 degrees since instructions (Williams Brewing) state it is best for since lower could get a stuck fermentation. I did make a starter and it started going crazy in 12 hours or less.

Justin Knight

[brew captain]

Adding more yeast after the bulk of fermentation is complete will not necessarily result in higher carbonation. This is especially true if you had a healthy and vigorous fermentation that achieved the expected attenuation. Krausening with fresh wort (and yeast) would do so if you continued to ferment in a closed vessel such as a Cornelius keg whereby you could retain the CO2 produced. If you are using an airlock and a carboy or bucket you are limited on how much carbonation will remain in your beer at packaging no matter what you do. Also three to four ounces of priming sugar seems low to me. I would use six to seven ounces on a five gallon batch to get the desired carbonation level.

Cheers!

[PMR]

Adding more yeast will ensure your bottles are properly carbonated, especially if there's a considerable amount of time in secondary (i.e. your original yeast is not viable).

Make sure your beer is to terminal gravity before bottling or deciding on priming rates. I'd shoot for a carbonation level of 3.3, so around 5 oz. of sugar / 6 oz. of dextrose (corn sugar) for 5 gallons. If the beer is a bit underattenuated (finishes higher than 1.015), then I'd reduce the amount of priming sugar, just to make sure you won't have bottle bombs.

[brew captain]

I agree with Pat that adding yeast at packaging with the priming sugar will increase the likelyhood of good carbonation, but I see no benefit to the carbonation level by adding more yeast in the secondary. Better attenuation maybe...

Cheers!

[spkrtoy]

What Pat and Robert said is true, adding yeast to secondary will not increase carbonation but will probably dry out the beer too much. I think they meant adding it a bottling/kegging with the 3 oz of sugar. Now that would re-create the "champagne" effervessance that Tripel's are supposed to have. Think Unibroue's La fin du Monde!

[huntfisher]

So, just add the activator yeast and the sugar in the bottling bucket. Should I stick with the 3oz of sugar.

[dhempy]

I would think it depends on your attenuation .. if you're well attenuated, then you'll need more sugar, if not, then 3 oz should do. Take a gravity reading and let that guide you.

Dan

[brew captain]

Three ounces is less than half a cup. If you are making an english ale then fine, but if you actually want some carbonation you need to double that amount of priming sugar. Dan's point on checking the gravity is valid, but in a typical fermentation you are going to get at least 70-75% attenuation and should have little remaining fermentables to compensate for...

Cheers!

[dhempy]

You're right BC ... that is what I meant .. if you're well attenuated, then use a larger amount, if not, adjust appropriately to avoid "bottle bombs" as Pat put it.

Dan

[huntfisher]

I emailed Williams brewing since I forgot the yeast strain that I made. And,they stated that repitching the same wyeast would be unnecessary, and they warned that American bottles are not rated for high carbonation, so do not add more sugar or repitch they warned. So, I am wondering if this i true since I am debating whether to repitch and add 5 ounces of sugar. I do notice that some of my caps can still be rotated around(adding muscle) bottles despite them being non twist off bottles, but they cannot be twisted off. But, the majority of my bottles are not in thin glass like bud or miller. So, should I ignore advice. Also, the wort was in primary for a week, and I will let sit in secondary for 15 days. Starting gravity 76, final gravity 12.Wyeast 1214 Belgian Ale

[brew captain]

http://www.brewheads.com/priming.php

This calculator recommends just over 6 onces of priming sugar. I have bottled literally over 1000 bottles of beer using the methods we have discussed here and never had a single bottle break. I used bottles from American brands such as Sam Adams, Redhook, El Toro Brewing Co., New Belgian, Flying Dog, Widmer, Pacifico (I guess this one is not American actually) and so on.

Pitching additional yeast may not be necessary if you do not linger long in secondary, but it wont hurt anything. Use only 1/10th the amount of yeast as you would at the beginning of the fermentation or just skip it. Don't skimp on the priming sugar though. You seem to have gotten over 80% attenuation so you have no worry of residual fermentables coming into play.

Cheers!

[PMR]

Williams Brewing point on the choice of bottles is an important one. The bottles we use at The Bruery are rated up to 7 bar (100 psi) for safety purposes (also, some breweries / wineries flash pasteurize in them). The typical 12 oz. bottle is not very strong, and the typical bomber (22 oz.) is even less so. I wouldn't exceed 3 volumes of Co2 in a typical bottle.