Mash Configuration

[dhempy]

Does anyone know if the mash configuration makes any difference? By configuration I mean, a tall narrow cylinder versus a short and wide cylinder? I can see that a tall narrow cylinder might be more advantageous for sparging operations as there is a longer path for the water to take through the grain. At the homebrew scale, it might not make significant difference. Certainly anyone with a converted (rectangular) cooler type mash tun would have the short wide equivalent. I would say that keggles fit the tall and narrow config. I know that folks brew great beers with both.

The reason I'm asking is because I'm considering new vessels and am wondering if height / diameter should be considered in the decision. Also I brew both 5 and 10 gallon batches so with a larger diameter vessel, a 5 gallon batch will have a relatively thin grain bed and that would be my main concern. I'd like to go with 20 gallon vessels because I like the headroom in the boilpot, and the additional capacities for the mashtun and HLT but the pots are short and wide.

Dan

[brahn]

As far as I know it doesn't make any difference besides the possible lautering issues that you mentioned.

[BrewMasterBrad]

I have not read any research on mash vessel geometry, but there is certainly alot of documentation on boil kettle geometry.

It seems to me that a tall and narrow mash vessel could cause some problems with stuck mashes since there is the potential for the grains at the bottom to be compressed due to the weight of the grain and water on top of it. I know that some production breweries purposely use shallow mash vessels specifically to improve the flow of liquid through the grain bed. I do not know how this affects efficiency.

[JonGoku]

...and I bet every homebrewer at one point or another has contemplated the same exact question when scooping coffee into the coffee pot filter.

[backyard brewer]

Having brewed on the Italian kettles for years, the wider/squater HD kettles, a cooler with a braid and a Blingmann mash tun; I like the wider/shorter configuration for a mash tun. The additional diamter allows for more mash screen surface area which in turn results in less compaction and also allows for better flow when using a pump by reducing the slight vacuum the pump is placing on the foundation.

For a boil kettle, I like a taller/narrower one since it gives more space at the top to avoid boil-overs.

[JonGoku]

For a boil kettle, I like a taller/narrower one since it gives more space at the top to avoid boil-overs.

A smaller surface area would also mean less loss of volume due to boil off/evaporation right?

[backyard brewer]

For a boil kettle, I like a taller/narrower one since it gives more space at the top to avoid boil-overs.

A smaller surface area would also mean less loss of volume due to boil off/evaporation right?

Yes.

[bwarbiany]

I don't think at the homebrew scale, it makes much difference. I've mashed in a 5 gallon igloo cooler, a 10 gallon igloo cooler, and a 15.5 gallon keggle (anywhere from 5 to 15 gallon batches in the keggle). The only time I've had a stuck mash was in the 5 gallon when my neighbor installed the manifold upside down, and my efficiency, regardless of configuration, is typically 70-75% unless I'm making something super-high-grav.

I'm sure at the professional level, it's important, but I'd go with whatever you prefer.

BTW regarding boil kettle, I actually prefer a wider shallower configuration, as I think the additional boiloff surface area helps me run the boil harder once it gets going...