New Kegerator Build Advice

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bwarbiany
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New Kegerator Build Advice

Post by bwarbiany »

So, my keezer is dying. My American IPA is barely cool enough for an Englishman, and a German would scoff at my Marzen. And my blonde ale is in another fridge on a picnic tap...

So it's time for a new build. As much as like the keezer/collar build, I find it to be a royal PITA to use. And the condensation problems are killing me. Looking into my keezer when it is open disgusts me.

So I'm thinking of an upright like JonW's build, with the taps in the door.

Goals:

1. Needs to fit 6 ball lock kegs.
2. Ease of access for changing kegs/etc.
3. Would like to have additional room for either storing beer or dry-aging meat projects.
4. Condensation-free.
5. Has to look pretty decent as I might be putting it inside the house or on a back patio wherever my new place ends up being. It won't need to be relegated to a garage.

So how big of a fridge should I be looking for? Anyone have ideas on models/brands that you think will fit the above? Any pitfalls I need to watch out for on this type of build?
Brad
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SamIam
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Re: New Kegerator Build Advice

Post by SamIam »

I'd go with a frost free upright freezer. If you build a shelf in the middle the model like JonW and I have will store up to 11 ball lock kegs and if your only going to ever put six kegs in, there is plenty of room for storing other items. I went from a chest freezer to an upright and the condensation issues are drastically reduced with an upright. Plus the overall footprint is much smaller compared to a chest freezer. The model I have is a Fridgidare 20.7cf but it seems that most all the freezers at that size from different brands are the same. I think there is even a stainless steel version. Check Craigslist, I used to seem them all the time between $200-$300.
"I feel sorry for people who don't drink. When they wake up in the morning, that's as good as they're going to feel all day!"
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bwarbiany
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Re: New Kegerator Build Advice

Post by bwarbiany »

Thanks Sam... Something like this? http://orangecounty.craigslist.org/ppd/5443973811.html

What is the keg configuration? 3 across, 2 deep? Is the fridge deep enough to do that without excessive modifications to the door?
Brad
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SamIam
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Re: New Kegerator Build Advice

Post by SamIam »

I'm not sure about that one, you would have to compare the inside dimensions but it looks big enough. Mine is this one http://www.abt.com/product/16362/Frigid ... 064DW.html

The keg configuration on the bottom is a slightly staggered 5, 3 in the back row and 2 in the front row. Then I can put 6 on the top shelf that I made. There is a hump on the back wall that goes about half way up and below the shelf that limits the bottom to 5. I didn't have to do any modifications to the door but if you cut out the door shelves you could do six on the bottom as well.
"I feel sorry for people who don't drink. When they wake up in the morning, that's as good as they're going to feel all day!"
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bwarbiany
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Re: New Kegerator Build Advice

Post by bwarbiany »

Thanks again Sam... Goal would be six on one level, whether that's top or bottom...

I'll have to see if anywhere actually stocks these and show up with some circle cutouts. I like the stainless version as that'll be more presentable.
Brad
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Re: New Kegerator Build Advice

Post by JonW »

Brad, yes, that upright would work. Bonus on that one is that you won't need an external temperature controller. I have that model as a refrigerator only in my garage. It's also convertible to run as an upright freezer mode. Real nice unit. I do see fluctuations in the temp readings though, so you may need to experiment with it to see how well it does on keeping a constant temp for kegs. I think it would probably be just fine though.

Edit: I just looked at that CL add again and that is the same unit the guy has had listed since last summer (when I was looking at that unit). There is a sizeable hole in the door to the left of the handle. The pic he shows doesn't show it much, but it's a big hole. Looks like it was shot with a .45! Ask the guy for a close up pic of the damage area.
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bwarbiany
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Re: New Kegerator Build Advice

Post by bwarbiany »

Getting excited about this... It's taken me too long to get out of my house, but I'm finally moving into a new place this weekend. And there's a perfect spot *right in the kitchen* for this build :wink:

(I suppose I'd better actually brew something soon...)
Brad
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Re: New Kegerator Build Advice

Post by JonW »

bwarbiany wrote: And there's a perfect spot *right in the kitchen* for this build :wink:
The sign of a true bachelor! Best wishes for this next chapter. :cheers:
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bwarbiany
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Re: New Kegerator Build Advice

Post by bwarbiany »

So I finally pulled the trigger and got a fridge. After not having a lot of luck on Craigslist, I took advantage of the last day of 4th of July sales and got a Kenmore 20.9 cf fridge. It was delivered this evening and I'm letting it cool down so see where the temp ends up before I load it up with beer.

Question: The shanks I have are probably 3 1/2" long, and are designed for going through a thick collar. obviously that won't be the case. It doesn't look to me like the nut could be tightened down enough to grab sheet metal.

What do you guys do? Do you have shanks that are only on the metal? Or do you put some sort of backer in there to both thicken it up and stabilize it so that it's not just bare metal. Any ideas on what I should use?
Brad
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maltbarley
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Re: New Kegerator Build Advice

Post by maltbarley »

You can use a slightly larger schedule 40+ PVC to make spacers to go through the insulation. Just make sure it's larger than the shank hole in the metal. Use a larger diameter hole saw on the back side to make room for your PVC spacers.
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DrDually
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Re: New Kegerator Build Advice

Post by DrDually »

maltbarley wrote:You can use a slightly larger schedule 40+ PVC to make spacers to go through the insulation. Just make sure it's larger than the shank hole in the metal. Use a larger diameter hole saw on the back side to make room for your PVC spacers.
+1
Also use a large washer or similar item to spread out the load from backing nut
Suggest using silicon to seal the nut/washer combination otherwise condensation will accumulate in door...which leads to mold etc
Something else to consider is the total weight of 6 kegs on the shelf...six will weight over 250#

If you need help drilling etc, PM me
Chris aka Dr Dually
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JonW
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Re: New Kegerator Build Advice

Post by JonW »

I use the same shank collars on the inside of the fridge as the outside so as to spread out the pressure of the nut on the back side. Actually, I used the SS ones on the inside, but that was only because I wasn't sure if I wanted SS or black on the outside, so I bought 8 of each.
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bwarbiany
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Re: New Kegerator Build Advice

Post by bwarbiany »

Sadly, looks like this will have to wait a bit. I hadn't realized that the model that I purchased has the cooling lines run through the shelves. So time to contact Sears and figure out how to have them come take it away and exchange it for a different one.

That's what I get for trying to rush through a purchase while on a conference call at work and basing buying decisions partly on getting it delivered next-day. Grr.
Brad
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maltbarley
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Re: New Kegerator Build Advice

Post by maltbarley »

I think the key to look for is "frost free" if you are buying a freezer with adjustable shelves.
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bwarbiany
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Re: New Kegerator Build Advice

Post by bwarbiany »

maltbarley wrote:I think the key to look for is "frost free" if you are buying a freezer with adjustable shelves.
What about this one?

http://www.sears.com/frigidaire-21-cu-f ... 647712000P
Brad
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